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A Change of Scenery — Italy

clock 30th September 2011 | comment0 Comments

Following on from last week's piece, A Change of Scenery — Austria, I've taken a look at the Italian resorts that offer something a little different to the usual top resorts us Brits tend to head to.

Italian skiing is renowned for its great value and relaxed pace, which almost feels ironic for an espresso-fuelled country, renowned for its sports cars and helmet-less, moped riding nutcases.

Selva

Selva is a truly beautiful resort that boasts amazing scenery — the Dolomites change colour throughout the day depending on the light. The ski area is ideal for beginners and intermediates, offering the perfect terrain to build confidence. Elisa Boccara, one of our longstanding sales consultants described the Selva as "the most beautiful ski resort I have ever been to."

For the more experienced skiers there is the whopping 1220 km of the Sella Ronda to explore and though the slopes are not the most challenging, the vast array of terrain and ability to ski in so many different resorts, including Arabba, Corvara and Canazei makes it worth the trip.

The resort itself offers a mix of Italian and Austrian food and culture, making for a quite an original experience and probably more akin to Switzerland, apart from the vast difference in prices! The après ski is more gentle than last week's Austrian resorts, but there is enough to have a good time. Whether on the mountain or in resort you'll find your euros going a lot further, as the typical prices of food and drink are much more reasonable than France or Austria.

Madonna di Campiglio

As one of the country's top resorts, Madonna di Campiglio's popularity with the local market and relatively small number of beds ensures its exclusive — to the British market at least — reputation.

Whereas Courchevel and Klosters are becoming synonymous with nouveau riche Russians, Madonna is better known for hosting Ferrari's pre-season party, thanks to the generous sponsors, which adds a little F1 style glamour. If you head into the resort in mid-January you can expect to see the likes of Fernando Alonso, Felipe Massa, Stefano Domenicali, Giancarlo Fisichella, Jules Bianchi and even Michael Schumacher in town.

The resort is full of Milanese happy to parade the latest fashion every evening in the charming town square. Nearby boutiques, lively Italian bars and attractive cafes all add to the resort's character. Along with all of this there is also 150km of skiing in what is an intermediate skier's dream. It really is like a smaller Courchevel, minus the pretence.

Champoluc

One of Iglu's most renowned ski specialists highly recommends Champoluc, and Thomas Moulton doesn't hand out recommendations willy nilly, "A good skiing buddy of mine raves about the resort — vast empty pistes next to the Monte Rosa with flattering skiing, great Italian food and good accommodation. A West Country group of ours who book every year also expressed similar sentiments. It's well priced too."

Champoluc isn't as renowned as many of Europe's resorts, but for those tired of skiing in Val d'Isere, St. Anton and even Verbier, it offers superb touring skiing, whether hiking the Monta Rosa with a local guide or splashing out on some heliskiing in the nearby area. The resort itself offers great, confidence-building skiing, so for mixed ability groups looking for something a little different, with money to spend, and wanting to stay within a short flight from the UK, Champoluc is a great option.

As with many Italian resorts, Champoluc is quiet during the week, but picks up during the weekend when the Milanese and Turin crowds flock to the their weekend apartments and Italian run hotels. The Relais des Glaciers offer superb accommodation and remains family-run, adding to the charm.

Skiing and snowboarding shouldn't be about skiing the same runs and staying in the same hotels and chalets year-on-year, I am guilty of repeatedly visiting Meribel and Morzine, don't get me wrong, but we should all try and ski somewhere new once in a while. There are so many fantastic, though largely undiscovered resorts out there to experience, and on holiday it makes a nice change to be surrounded by locals, as opposed to bumping into your neighbours, someone off the PTA or the lads from the rugby club.



The Iglu Guide To Christmas & New Year Dates

clock 24th May 2011 | comment0 Comments

Christmas isn’t coming and the goose isn’t getting fat but if you are planning a festive season ski holiday you really shouldn’t look away now.

With Christmas Day and New Year’s Day again falling at a weekend, all the leading ski companies have changed their programmes. So it’s worth knowing some of the key changes affecting the weeks taking in Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.

Christmas Day is a Sunday so none of the ski companies will flying that day. Instead most holidays will start on Christmas Eve or Friday 23rd December although some companies have switched to Monday 19th December or Wednesday 21st December.

Also, while most holidays are for the standard seven days, some operators are offering the bonus of eight days on the slopes over Christmas.

So there's plenty to choose from. For example, you could set off as early as 18th December and return on Boxing Day, or depart as late as Christmas Eve and return on New Year's Eve.

New Year’s Day is also a Sunday and, again, there will be no flights that day. Instead, there will be departures on four different days for holidays lasting 7, 8 or 9 days. You could set out on Boxing Day for a week with the return on 2nd January or you could wait until 30th or 31st December and return on 8th or 9th January.

Parents who want to take school age children skiing over New Year will have to especially careful for not every operator’s revised schedule will get them back in time for school.

Here is a breakdown of the date combinations available, though be sure to check with one of our ski experts for the exact details of the holidays that interest you, as you will notice some countries offer a variety of dates to chose from.

Christmas:

Departure Date Duration Return Date Location
18 Dec 11

19 Dec 11

20 Dec 11

21 Dec 11

23 Dec 11

24 Dec 11

8

7

7

7

7

7

26 Dec 11

26 Dec 11

27 Dec 11

28 Dec 11

30 Dec 11

31 Dec 11

Finland, France, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland
Andorra, Bulgaria, France, Italy, Norway, Switzerland
Finland

France

Austria, France, Italy, Switzerland

Austria, Bulgaria, France, Italy, Switzerland

New Year:

Departure Date Duration Return Date Location
26 Dec 11

27 Dec 11

28 Dec 11

30 Dec 11

30 Dec 11

30 Dec 11

31 Dec 11

7

7

7

7

8

9

7

02 Jan 12

03 Jan 12

04 Jan 12

06 Jan 12

07 Jan 12

08 Jan 12

07 Jan 12

Andorra, Bulgaria, France, Italy, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland
Finland

France

Switzerland

Austria, France, Italy, Switzerland

Austria, France, Italy, Switzerland

Austria, Bulgaria, France, Italy, Switzerland


Which is the best of the Top Ten Biggest ski areas in the World?

clock 16th May 2011 | comment0 Comments

Iglu's Sales Manager, AJ, has skied pretty much everywhere worth mention, from Jackson Hole to Les Arcs, and has given us his expert opinion of the largest ski areas the world has to offer.

Here's the run down on the biggest resorts in the World.

Les Trois Vallées, 600km of linked piste — So much skiing you could never be bored even after several visits.

This area is 'The' British favourite. From East to West the three main resorts are Courchevel (1760m) in the St Bon Tarantaise Vallée, Méribel (1450m) in Les Allues Vallée, and Val Thorens (2300m) in St Martin de Belleville Vallée.

Courchevel 1850, note the resort is named 1850 to compete with Val d'Isére and is actually at 1760m, is glamorous and expensive. It's mainly 4/5 * hotels and some sensational chalets. If you try some of the lower resorts like 1550 or 1650 then you can get a reasonably priced holiday but the mountain restaurants are still going to rip an ever expanding hole in your wallet. Stay as far away as possible during the 1st week of January which is the Russian New Year. This place is good for couples on a special holiday.

Méribel is huge and has countless British run chalets. If you don't like the French or French food then this is the place for you. It might as well be Méribel-on-Thames. Very convenient for the ski access but quite low at 1450m and prone to slush late in the season. This place is best for a large group or family who want a chalet to themselves.

Val Thorens is the highest resort in Europe and competes with Tignes and Flaine for the not very coveted title of ugliest resort in the world. However, I love it. The aprésphere is amongst the best in France. It gets loads of Dutch and Scandis and these guys love to party. This place is great for keen skiers and partiers alike.

I like - The touring, the aprés ski in VT, and the restaurants in Courchevel.

I don't like - The Britishness and lack of ski in/ski out in Méribel, the complete absence of decent and reasonably priced mountain huts for lunch [look harder next time there are plenty - Ed]. The restaurants are mainly huge self serve, characterless places.

Top Tip - Pack your lunch and picnic.

Espace Killy, 300km of piste — Great nightlife in Val d'Isére and the most consistent snow in Europe above Tignes.

Named after the famed French skier Jean-Claude Killy who grew up there, this area has the best snow record in France. The two main resorts are Val d'Isére (1850m) with the Pissaillas Glacier and Tignes (2100m) with the Grand Motte Glacier.

Val d'Isére is a mix of chalets and hotels and is very British. The nightlife here rocks and the range of restaurants is excellent but expensive. This is a steep ski area with not a lot for beginners. This place is great for small groups out to party and ski hard.

Tignes is pretty ghastly to look at but you get the convenience of easy access to the slopes. Le Lac is where all the British chalets are and not much happens here. Further up at Val Claret you have all the pokey apartments the French like and the nightlife here is much better. This resort is the best in Europe for early and late season skiing.

I like - The steep slopes, the Folie Douce aprés ski, and the extensive the off piste.

I don't like - The ugliness of Tignes, the lack of good restaurants on the mountain, the long transfer as it's right at the end of the Vallée de la Tarantaise.

Top Tip - Do the out-of-bounds run from the top of the Grand Prix lift into the Vallée de la Manchet. It's the prettiest run in the region (and fairly safe).

Paradiski, 425km of piste — Convenient and extensive skiing in a modern setting and great access by train.

This area in the combination of La Plagne and Les Arcs. They were joined a few years back by the 200 capacity double decker Vanoise Express cable car. The two ski areas are large enough for a weeks skiing on their own and the last time I skied in Les Arcs I never even got over to La Plagne. Neither of these ski areas will ever be known for the beauty of their villages, they are purpose built and some of those building were built in the heyday of the concrete '70s. However, the benefit of purpose built is convenience. If you want ski in/ski out then this is probably where you'll be recommended. Much of the accommodation is also cheap which attracts the families and students. Both areas have modern lift systems and this means very few queues.

This area attracts a lot of French holiday makers because of the self catered apartments that abound. There are some luxury apartments, especially in the newest Village of 1950 in Les Arcs, but the majority are pretty pokey and the facilities are basic. Both resorts offer very high skiing and this means the season starts early and ends late.

I like - The tree runs down to Peisey Vallandry in Les Arcs are steep and beautiful.

I don't like - There are too many flat spots in La Plagne and I had to drag my boarder mates on the end of pole to save them walking many times.

Top tip - There is a back country run from the Aiguille Rouge above Les Arcs down to Vilaroger called the Valley of the Kings. I recommend a guide, my mate skied off a cliff and still moans about his back.

Portes du Soleil, 650km of piste — Great for all day touring to numerous resorts in two countries.

This is a collection of 13 linked resorts that straddle the French-Swiss border near Geneva. The main resorts for Brits are Morzine, Avoriaz and Les Gets. The touring here is first class and you can visit several charming little villages like Morgins in Switzerland, to sample world class Chocolate Chaud for morning tea. I have never seen so many top quality mountain huts and terrace bars in any other area. Every day can be a gastronomic journey covering hundreds of km and experiencing a huge variety of terrain and stunning views as far as Mont Blanc and Lake Geneva.

The only problem with this area is the height. When the snow is good in peak season it can't be beaten but by the third week of March the afternoons can be heavy skiing. I went in April last time and had a superb time with some fresh powder but the afternoons after 2.30pm were spent on sunny decks absorbing rays and drinking the legendary Mutzig beer.

I like - The short transfer from Geneva, the enormous range of terrain, and the 'Secret Valley'. Sorry, but I'm sworn not to tell you where it is.

I don't like - The aprés ski in Morzine is a little tame and links over to Avoriaz take 30 minutes in the morning

Top tip - The Lindarets tree runs include 'The Stash', there is nothing else like this in Europe and it rocks! Try the tartiflette crêpe in Les Marmottes in Lindarets. It is gastronomic perfection.

Skiwelt, 279km of linked piste — Fun and cheap.

This is the largest linked ski area in Austria. The area is low but has a great snow record and the most comprehensive snow cannon coverage in Europe. Soll is the number one destination Brits because of the wild aprés ski and the well priced hotels. This area has a lot of fantastic views of the Wilderkaiser mountains and you can do a bit of touring. I like going to Austria because of the fun Tyrolean atmosphere and proper villages, with this area delivering on both fronts. I guarantee you will have more fun in Austria than in France but the resorts just aren't as convenient. Soll only has one cable car out of town and it gets busy.

I like - The party with the ever friendly Austrians who speak perfect English.

I don't like - The lift queues.

Top tip - If you are staying in Soll then take the free local bus for 7 minutes down to Ellmau and catch the Gondola there that rarely has any queues.

Arlberg, 276km of piste — For the hard skiers and even harder partiers.

This area combines the resorts of St. Anton, St. Christoph, Lech, and Zurs. St. Anton's ski area is quite challenging and the home runs are so narrow they get bumped up in the afternoon. As much as I love this resort I can't recommend it to beginners. The St. Anton ski school would kill me for saying that. They claim to be the oldest in the world and the locals even claim that alpine skiing, as we know it, was invented in the area. In the old days the villages of Lech and Zurs were cut off in Winter and they had to climb the Valluga and ski down to St. Anton. It was too steep for telemarking so they locked their boots in at the heel and alpine skiing was born — or so the story goes.

St. Anton is a fantastic party town. The aprés ski at the Mooserwirt and Krazy Kangaruh bars is justifiably legendary. Lech is the posh and dignified part of the area. The piste grooming in Lech is second to none in Europe and will make even the most timid skier feel like a racer. This is the area for piste cruisers and beginners.

I like - The aprés ski in St. Anton and 'The Beach' on the Rendl side of the valley that overlooks the terrain park.

I don't like - The icy bumpy runs that take you home in the afternoons.

Top tip - Get a guide and do the Valluga run down to Zurs from St. Anton. A world renowned classic.

Zermatt & Cervinia, 313km of piste — Glamorous and stunning.

This area is very much a tale of tow countries. Zermatt on the Swiss side is gorgeous, glamorous, has coolly efficient lift systems, challenging skiing, and is astronomically expensive. The Italian Cervinia side is a jumble of cobbled streets, cheap cafés offering great food, ugly yet friendly hotels, cheerful locals, and typical Italian lift queues. If you are precious about the graphics on the tops of your skis then don't queue with Italians.

No matter where you are in either of these resorts your vision will be filled with the Matterhorn. It is the most iconic mountain in the world. All the best mountain restaurants in Zermatt face the Matterhorn and you will find it hard to tear your eyes away even when eating. The hotels in Zermatt are beautiful in a classic 19th century way and the town is car free so you will see loads of horse drawn carriages dropping off well heeled nouveau rich and Europe's aristocracy at the grand entrances. Be careful not to miss the last lift back to Cervinia in the afternoon as one of our staff did. It cost him 400 Swiss Francs for one nights stay in Zermatt. The way back to Cervinia takes you up to the highest lift in Europe at 3900m which can be very cold and windy and it takes ages to ski back down so they close the last lift at just after 4pm.

The Cervinia side is known for its cruisy red runs that are up to 22 km long. It's great for looking good and the mountain restaurants serve authentically made pasta at reasonable prices. I prefer to stay in Cervinia because it's cheaper but if I could afford the best hotels and the best mountain restaurants then I'd ski in Zermatt every single year.

I like - The stunning beauty of the Matterhorn just can't be beaten and where better to view it than in one of the best mountain restaurants in the world in Zermatt.

I don't like - The prices

Top tip - Save your pennies and splurge on a lunch at either Chez Vrony or Zum See (that's if you can get a table, I highly recommend booking).

Milky Way, 400km of piste — Cheap and cheerful.

There are five main villages in this impressive ski area that bridges the Italian and French border. Sauze d'Oulx is the most popular with the Brits. It is cheap and cheerful and has loads of bars among its ancient cobbled streets. It can get pretty rowdy here and is best enjoyed but young partiers. Sestriere is the highest of the resorts and hosted the Olympics in the '90s but it is a purpose built resort of very little character and no charm at all.

On the French side you have Montgenevre which is very pretty and is where the first French Ski School started. It also hosted the 1st ever International Ski Race in 1907. In those days skiing was just developing and they stopped using a technique called the 'Brianconnais Stop'. This means just falling over. This resort is one of my hidden gems. I highly recommend it for those who have tired of the ugly mega-resorts of France but still want a large high ski area with the good things about France like the food and wine. You can also walk into Italy (2km) at night for a spot of pasta and Chianti.

I like - The short transfer from Turin and the fun atmosphere.

I don't like - The remaining drag lifts and the poor links between the resorts. You really need to plan your day to make the most of this area.

Top tip - Stay in Montgenevre and do the night time skidoo trip to a mountain restaurant, it's a great night out.

Sella Ronda, 1220km of piste — Beautiful vistas and easy cruisy skiing.

The claim of 1220 km of piste is a little misleading. On the Super Dolomiti ski pass you can ski at a lot of resorts, but it's not practical to visit some of them from your base resort if you are on the Sella Ronda circuit, as they are not all linked. Selva is the most popular resort because it is well linked and offers the best access to the most skiing. Cortina is probable the most famous resort on the Super Dolomiti but it is not linked to any other resorts.

The views of the Dolomites have been described as more interesting and striking than those of the Alps. They tend to have sharp features and very steep rocky crags at the top. Skiing here is very laid back. The Italians are even considering banning off-piste skiing here. Apparently they don't like rescuing skiers in trouble if it's not near a good restaurant.

I love the views here but the skiing is not steep enough for very advanced skiers who like a challenge. Come for the beauty, the well-priced food, and the charming villages, but don't expect any excitement.

I like - The views take your breath away, maybe even challenging Zermatt. There is a pink light to the alpenglow on the mountains here.

I don't like - The Italian attitude to off-piste skiing.

Top tip - Most skiers do the excellent Sella Ronda route anti-clockwise for the better views. I much prefer clockwise as it takes in the few challenging steep black runs on the circuit.

Chamonix, 762km of piste — The most challenging skiing in Europe and a Mecca for experts.

The km of piste is deceptive and maybe a bit of marketing. Most people only ever ski the Brévent-Flégère area straight out of town, Le Tour at the end of the Valley and Grand Montets (the best area). This is around 300km of piste. This town is a proper town first and a ski resort second, however, it is one of the worlds extreme skiing Meccas. The town is under the imposing Mont Blanc and your lift pass covers the cable car up to the Aiguille du Midi. Even if you don't want to do the all day back country tour called the Vallée Blanche it's worth going up to see the view across the whole Alps. The Vallée Blanche has many routes and you only need to be a intermediate of four or more weeks skiing to do the easiest route, though you must take a guide.

The local area of Brévent-Flégère is good for one or two days skiing but most of the time I head to Grand Montets which is 20 mins by bus towards Argentiere. This ski area is big, high, and steep. One of the best of its kind anywhere. There is another little treasure at the end of the Valley just before the Mont Blanc tunnel that takes you to Italy. La Tour is usually frequented by beginners as the front area is really easy and cruisy, I use it on bad weather days. On the backside of the mountain there are countless tree runs that lead down to a cute little train station. At the end of the day catch the train back into Chamonix, it's free with your lift pass.

I like - The super challenging steepness you can find in Grand Montets, it's a thrill.

I don't like - No one really likes catching a bus in the morning, but it's worth it.

Top tip - Stay in the 4* Club Med in Chamonix. It is the only ski in-ski out property in Chamonix and Iglu has special deals that make it unbelievably good value.

So which is the best then?

It's not my personal favourite, which is Chamonix (but I'm a crazy for couloirs and crevasses), but I can't really fault Les Trois Vallées. Yes, there are too many Brits in Méribel. Yes, it's pretty ugly up in Val Thorens when the weather comes in. Yes, Courchevel is expensive and full of Russians in the first week of January. However, the variety that's on offer in all these resorts and the unbelievable range of well linked pistes just isn't comparable to anywhere else. The only problem is disappointment at the next ski area you go to. I don't know how many times I've heard the words, 'we skied in the Three Valleys last year and want something similar', sorry folks but there isn't anywhere similar.

 



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