Unless you know it really well, you really need a guide to ski here. If you can only ski reds and easier there is only really one run - and that is quite stiff and isn't marked. The joy is true off-piste skiing - making your own track down a complicated mountain riven with hidden chutes and couloirs.
There is only ONE lift from the valley to over 3200 (though there are two mid stations and it's common to ski from upper mid to lower mid, which is mostly through the trees). The two drag lifts advertised NEVER operate (one has broken the other is in bits).
For serious skiers it's a must visit pilgrimage.
Stay at the edelweiss and hire a guide or stay at the skiers lodge who include guiding and avalanche gear and will bus you somewhere else (Serre Chevalier / Alpe d'Huez / Claviere etc) to find suitable runs.
The village is a real place with real traffic pouring through it, short on bars and restaurants and generally pretty dead - but it's no plastic disney land resort for sure.