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Ski Blog

Chalets With A View

clock 31st August 2011 | comment0 Comments

Heading for a chalet holiday is about more than just the snow for some people, there are also the views, the food and the relaxed atmosphere to look forward to.

The best food is fairly easy to work out, if you are heading to a luxury chalet you are likely to get restaurant-quality cuisine and impeccable service, if you head to a 2* property you'll be getting a hearty meal and service from teenage chalet hosts. But which chalets have the best views?

Location, Location, Location

A great view is all about the location of the chalet, the direction it is facing and of course the use of huge picture windows and balconies. So, with this in mind what are the chalets with the best views on our site? This of course is subjective, but here are my favourites.

Chalet Grace, Zermatt

Chalet Grace in Zermatt offers phenomenal views, from the double-height floor to ceiling window views of the Klein Matterhorn in the dining room, to the stunning valley views. One of Europe's most famous and most recognisable mountains, the Matterhorn, can also be seen from the living room's picture windows, or the strategically-placed window in the dining room, which perfectly frames the mountain's peak. It doesn't stop there either, as well as beautiful views across Zermatt itself, you can pop out to the outdoor hot tub which, you guessed it, has views of the Matterhorn.

Perdrix Blanche, Courchevel

The chalet Perdrix Blanche is situated in a quaint corner of Courchevel, down in Courchevel 1550, but it offers stunning views along Bozel Valley and the famous Tarantaise Valley. From the living rooms windows to some of the bedrooms, you have this incredible scenery dropping down the valley toward Brides les Bains and back up the valley to the unspoiled mountains on the opposite side. From the other side of the chalet you can take in the views toward Courchevel 1650 and the national park and, of course, there is the imposing Courchevel 1850 located at the top of the piste.

Chalet Hotel Montpelier, Verbier

Okay, so technically this is a chalet hotel, but as it is essentially just a really big chalet and it has incredible views, it is worth a mention. The hotel pool and sundeck has one of the most incredible indoor views you'll find in the Alps — straight out of the floor-to-ceiling and wall-to-wall windows you have an undisturbed, panoramic view of the region. With Mont Fort and Mont Gele both visible from the chalet, this property offers truly stunning views across and around Verbier.

Chalet Haute Cimes, Nendaz

Now, the Chalet Hautes Cimes is a risky one, as the images we currently have been given are artist's impressions and 'what you can expect' pictures from the tour operator, but if they live up the their promise, it will have been worth the risk.

Mira Belum, Meribel

The Mira Belum has a great location with views across the Meribel valley. You can see along the ridge line toward the Olympic Express chairlift, which takes you to St. Martin, and down the valley toward the quaint village of Les Allues. The views give you a real feel for the shape of the Three Valleys and why mother nature's layout makes it one of the best ski areas in the world. If you strain your neck, on a good day you can just about make out the top of the valley and where Meribel, Les Menuires and Val Thorens meet.

From beautiful vistas and panoramic mountain views, to deep valleys and national parks, the views on your chalet holiday don't have to be just those of high rise apartment blocks. The Alps have some of the most inspiring and even frightening mountains out there, so why not sit back with a vin chaud and take it all in after a day on the slopes.



Which is the best of the Top Ten Biggest ski areas in the World?

clock 16th May 2011 | comment0 Comments

Iglu's Sales Manager, AJ, has skied pretty much everywhere worth mention, from Jackson Hole to Les Arcs, and has given us his expert opinion of the largest ski areas the world has to offer.

Here's the run down on the biggest resorts in the World.

Les Trois Vallées, 600km of linked piste — So much skiing you could never be bored even after several visits.

This area is 'The' British favourite. From East to West the three main resorts are Courchevel (1760m) in the St Bon Tarantaise Vallée, Méribel (1450m) in Les Allues Vallée, and Val Thorens (2300m) in St Martin de Belleville Vallée.

Courchevel 1850, note the resort is named 1850 to compete with Val d'Isére and is actually at 1760m, is glamorous and expensive. It's mainly 4/5 * hotels and some sensational chalets. If you try some of the lower resorts like 1550 or 1650 then you can get a reasonably priced holiday but the mountain restaurants are still going to rip an ever expanding hole in your wallet. Stay as far away as possible during the 1st week of January which is the Russian New Year. This place is good for couples on a special holiday.

Méribel is huge and has countless British run chalets. If you don't like the French or French food then this is the place for you. It might as well be Méribel-on-Thames. Very convenient for the ski access but quite low at 1450m and prone to slush late in the season. This place is best for a large group or family who want a chalet to themselves.

Val Thorens is the highest resort in Europe and competes with Tignes and Flaine for the not very coveted title of ugliest resort in the world. However, I love it. The aprésphere is amongst the best in France. It gets loads of Dutch and Scandis and these guys love to party. This place is great for keen skiers and partiers alike.

I like - The touring, the aprés ski in VT, and the restaurants in Courchevel.

I don't like - The Britishness and lack of ski in/ski out in Méribel, the complete absence of decent and reasonably priced mountain huts for lunch [look harder next time there are plenty - Ed]. The restaurants are mainly huge self serve, characterless places.

Top Tip - Pack your lunch and picnic.

Espace Killy, 300km of piste — Great nightlife in Val d'Isére and the most consistent snow in Europe above Tignes.

Named after the famed French skier Jean-Claude Killy who grew up there, this area has the best snow record in France. The two main resorts are Val d'Isére (1850m) with the Pissaillas Glacier and Tignes (2100m) with the Grand Motte Glacier.

Val d'Isére is a mix of chalets and hotels and is very British. The nightlife here rocks and the range of restaurants is excellent but expensive. This is a steep ski area with not a lot for beginners. This place is great for small groups out to party and ski hard.

Tignes is pretty ghastly to look at but you get the convenience of easy access to the slopes. Le Lac is where all the British chalets are and not much happens here. Further up at Val Claret you have all the pokey apartments the French like and the nightlife here is much better. This resort is the best in Europe for early and late season skiing.

I like - The steep slopes, the Folie Douce aprés ski, and the extensive the off piste.

I don't like - The ugliness of Tignes, the lack of good restaurants on the mountain, the long transfer as it's right at the end of the Vallée de la Tarantaise.

Top Tip - Do the out-of-bounds run from the top of the Grand Prix lift into the Vallée de la Manchet. It's the prettiest run in the region (and fairly safe).

Paradiski, 425km of piste — Convenient and extensive skiing in a modern setting and great access by train.

This area in the combination of La Plagne and Les Arcs. They were joined a few years back by the 200 capacity double decker Vanoise Express cable car. The two ski areas are large enough for a weeks skiing on their own and the last time I skied in Les Arcs I never even got over to La Plagne. Neither of these ski areas will ever be known for the beauty of their villages, they are purpose built and some of those building were built in the heyday of the concrete '70s. However, the benefit of purpose built is convenience. If you want ski in/ski out then this is probably where you'll be recommended. Much of the accommodation is also cheap which attracts the families and students. Both areas have modern lift systems and this means very few queues.

This area attracts a lot of French holiday makers because of the self catered apartments that abound. There are some luxury apartments, especially in the newest Village of 1950 in Les Arcs, but the majority are pretty pokey and the facilities are basic. Both resorts offer very high skiing and this means the season starts early and ends late.

I like - The tree runs down to Peisey Vallandry in Les Arcs are steep and beautiful.

I don't like - There are too many flat spots in La Plagne and I had to drag my boarder mates on the end of pole to save them walking many times.

Top tip - There is a back country run from the Aiguille Rouge above Les Arcs down to Vilaroger called the Valley of the Kings. I recommend a guide, my mate skied off a cliff and still moans about his back.

Portes du Soleil, 650km of piste — Great for all day touring to numerous resorts in two countries.

This is a collection of 13 linked resorts that straddle the French-Swiss border near Geneva. The main resorts for Brits are Morzine, Avoriaz and Les Gets. The touring here is first class and you can visit several charming little villages like Morgins in Switzerland, to sample world class Chocolate Chaud for morning tea. I have never seen so many top quality mountain huts and terrace bars in any other area. Every day can be a gastronomic journey covering hundreds of km and experiencing a huge variety of terrain and stunning views as far as Mont Blanc and Lake Geneva.

The only problem with this area is the height. When the snow is good in peak season it can't be beaten but by the third week of March the afternoons can be heavy skiing. I went in April last time and had a superb time with some fresh powder but the afternoons after 2.30pm were spent on sunny decks absorbing rays and drinking the legendary Mutzig beer.

I like - The short transfer from Geneva, the enormous range of terrain, and the 'Secret Valley'. Sorry, but I'm sworn not to tell you where it is.

I don't like - The aprés ski in Morzine is a little tame and links over to Avoriaz take 30 minutes in the morning

Top tip - The Lindarets tree runs include 'The Stash', there is nothing else like this in Europe and it rocks! Try the tartiflette crêpe in Les Marmottes in Lindarets. It is gastronomic perfection.

Skiwelt, 279km of linked piste — Fun and cheap.

This is the largest linked ski area in Austria. The area is low but has a great snow record and the most comprehensive snow cannon coverage in Europe. Soll is the number one destination Brits because of the wild aprés ski and the well priced hotels. This area has a lot of fantastic views of the Wilderkaiser mountains and you can do a bit of touring. I like going to Austria because of the fun Tyrolean atmosphere and proper villages, with this area delivering on both fronts. I guarantee you will have more fun in Austria than in France but the resorts just aren't as convenient. Soll only has one cable car out of town and it gets busy.

I like - The party with the ever friendly Austrians who speak perfect English.

I don't like - The lift queues.

Top tip - If you are staying in Soll then take the free local bus for 7 minutes down to Ellmau and catch the Gondola there that rarely has any queues.

Arlberg, 276km of piste — For the hard skiers and even harder partiers.

This area combines the resorts of St. Anton, St. Christoph, Lech, and Zurs. St. Anton's ski area is quite challenging and the home runs are so narrow they get bumped up in the afternoon. As much as I love this resort I can't recommend it to beginners. The St. Anton ski school would kill me for saying that. They claim to be the oldest in the world and the locals even claim that alpine skiing, as we know it, was invented in the area. In the old days the villages of Lech and Zurs were cut off in Winter and they had to climb the Valluga and ski down to St. Anton. It was too steep for telemarking so they locked their boots in at the heel and alpine skiing was born — or so the story goes.

St. Anton is a fantastic party town. The aprés ski at the Mooserwirt and Krazy Kangaruh bars is justifiably legendary. Lech is the posh and dignified part of the area. The piste grooming in Lech is second to none in Europe and will make even the most timid skier feel like a racer. This is the area for piste cruisers and beginners.

I like - The aprés ski in St. Anton and 'The Beach' on the Rendl side of the valley that overlooks the terrain park.

I don't like - The icy bumpy runs that take you home in the afternoons.

Top tip - Get a guide and do the Valluga run down to Zurs from St. Anton. A world renowned classic.

Zermatt & Cervinia, 313km of piste — Glamorous and stunning.

This area is very much a tale of tow countries. Zermatt on the Swiss side is gorgeous, glamorous, has coolly efficient lift systems, challenging skiing, and is astronomically expensive. The Italian Cervinia side is a jumble of cobbled streets, cheap cafés offering great food, ugly yet friendly hotels, cheerful locals, and typical Italian lift queues. If you are precious about the graphics on the tops of your skis then don't queue with Italians.

No matter where you are in either of these resorts your vision will be filled with the Matterhorn. It is the most iconic mountain in the world. All the best mountain restaurants in Zermatt face the Matterhorn and you will find it hard to tear your eyes away even when eating. The hotels in Zermatt are beautiful in a classic 19th century way and the town is car free so you will see loads of horse drawn carriages dropping off well heeled nouveau rich and Europe's aristocracy at the grand entrances. Be careful not to miss the last lift back to Cervinia in the afternoon as one of our staff did. It cost him 400 Swiss Francs for one nights stay in Zermatt. The way back to Cervinia takes you up to the highest lift in Europe at 3900m which can be very cold and windy and it takes ages to ski back down so they close the last lift at just after 4pm.

The Cervinia side is known for its cruisy red runs that are up to 22 km long. It's great for looking good and the mountain restaurants serve authentically made pasta at reasonable prices. I prefer to stay in Cervinia because it's cheaper but if I could afford the best hotels and the best mountain restaurants then I'd ski in Zermatt every single year.

I like - The stunning beauty of the Matterhorn just can't be beaten and where better to view it than in one of the best mountain restaurants in the world in Zermatt.

I don't like - The prices

Top tip - Save your pennies and splurge on a lunch at either Chez Vrony or Zum See (that's if you can get a table, I highly recommend booking).

Milky Way, 400km of piste — Cheap and cheerful.

There are five main villages in this impressive ski area that bridges the Italian and French border. Sauze d'Oulx is the most popular with the Brits. It is cheap and cheerful and has loads of bars among its ancient cobbled streets. It can get pretty rowdy here and is best enjoyed but young partiers. Sestriere is the highest of the resorts and hosted the Olympics in the '90s but it is a purpose built resort of very little character and no charm at all.

On the French side you have Montgenevre which is very pretty and is where the first French Ski School started. It also hosted the 1st ever International Ski Race in 1907. In those days skiing was just developing and they stopped using a technique called the 'Brianconnais Stop'. This means just falling over. This resort is one of my hidden gems. I highly recommend it for those who have tired of the ugly mega-resorts of France but still want a large high ski area with the good things about France like the food and wine. You can also walk into Italy (2km) at night for a spot of pasta and Chianti.

I like - The short transfer from Turin and the fun atmosphere.

I don't like - The remaining drag lifts and the poor links between the resorts. You really need to plan your day to make the most of this area.

Top tip - Stay in Montgenevre and do the night time skidoo trip to a mountain restaurant, it's a great night out.

Sella Ronda, 1220km of piste — Beautiful vistas and easy cruisy skiing.

The claim of 1220 km of piste is a little misleading. On the Super Dolomiti ski pass you can ski at a lot of resorts, but it's not practical to visit some of them from your base resort if you are on the Sella Ronda circuit, as they are not all linked. Selva is the most popular resort because it is well linked and offers the best access to the most skiing. Cortina is probable the most famous resort on the Super Dolomiti but it is not linked to any other resorts.

The views of the Dolomites have been described as more interesting and striking than those of the Alps. They tend to have sharp features and very steep rocky crags at the top. Skiing here is very laid back. The Italians are even considering banning off-piste skiing here. Apparently they don't like rescuing skiers in trouble if it's not near a good restaurant.

I love the views here but the skiing is not steep enough for very advanced skiers who like a challenge. Come for the beauty, the well-priced food, and the charming villages, but don't expect any excitement.

I like - The views take your breath away, maybe even challenging Zermatt. There is a pink light to the alpenglow on the mountains here.

I don't like - The Italian attitude to off-piste skiing.

Top tip - Most skiers do the excellent Sella Ronda route anti-clockwise for the better views. I much prefer clockwise as it takes in the few challenging steep black runs on the circuit.

Chamonix, 762km of piste — The most challenging skiing in Europe and a Mecca for experts.

The km of piste is deceptive and maybe a bit of marketing. Most people only ever ski the Brévent-Flégère area straight out of town, Le Tour at the end of the Valley and Grand Montets (the best area). This is around 300km of piste. This town is a proper town first and a ski resort second, however, it is one of the worlds extreme skiing Meccas. The town is under the imposing Mont Blanc and your lift pass covers the cable car up to the Aiguille du Midi. Even if you don't want to do the all day back country tour called the Vallée Blanche it's worth going up to see the view across the whole Alps. The Vallée Blanche has many routes and you only need to be a intermediate of four or more weeks skiing to do the easiest route, though you must take a guide.

The local area of Brévent-Flégère is good for one or two days skiing but most of the time I head to Grand Montets which is 20 mins by bus towards Argentiere. This ski area is big, high, and steep. One of the best of its kind anywhere. There is another little treasure at the end of the Valley just before the Mont Blanc tunnel that takes you to Italy. La Tour is usually frequented by beginners as the front area is really easy and cruisy, I use it on bad weather days. On the backside of the mountain there are countless tree runs that lead down to a cute little train station. At the end of the day catch the train back into Chamonix, it's free with your lift pass.

I like - The super challenging steepness you can find in Grand Montets, it's a thrill.

I don't like - No one really likes catching a bus in the morning, but it's worth it.

Top tip - Stay in the 4* Club Med in Chamonix. It is the only ski in-ski out property in Chamonix and Iglu has special deals that make it unbelievably good value.

So which is the best then?

It's not my personal favourite, which is Chamonix (but I'm a crazy for couloirs and crevasses), but I can't really fault Les Trois Vallées. Yes, there are too many Brits in Méribel. Yes, it's pretty ugly up in Val Thorens when the weather comes in. Yes, Courchevel is expensive and full of Russians in the first week of January. However, the variety that's on offer in all these resorts and the unbelievable range of well linked pistes just isn't comparable to anywhere else. The only problem is disappointment at the next ski area you go to. I don't know how many times I've heard the words, 'we skied in the Three Valleys last year and want something similar', sorry folks but there isn't anywhere similar.

 



Ten Resorts In Ten Hours?

clock 25th June 2010 | comment0 Comments

If you've been watching Wimbledon this summer then no doubt you have seen at least some of the ten hour marathon match that has spanned across two days between John Isner and Nicolas Mahut. If a game of tennis can last 11 hours with one set coming in two minutes shy of ten hours, I wondered how many resorts you could realistically ski in that time.

The sensible option for this challenge would surely be to grab some like minded friends, get a car big enough for four people and four boards (or sets of ski's) and head to the Tarantaise Valley in France. OK so maybe you could claim all the micro-resorts in the Paradiski or the villages and ski towns splattered across the Portes Du Soleil but the idea of skiing some of the biggest resorts in Europe and finishing in one the world's après ski mecca's, is what really appeals to me.

To me the obvious way of tackling this target of ten resorts is to begin the journey in Meribel, taking on the Three Valleys, burn some rubber down to Bourg St. Maurice and head up the Les Arcs and La Plagne and finish off with the drive up to the Espace Killy, dropping the car off in La Daille before riding over to Tignes and then onto the Saloon Bar in Val d'Isere for a celebration drink or two.

With an idea of where I need to go to succeed I grabbed a few piste maps, some local knowledge from my seasons and have come up with a planned description of how I'd attempt such a feat.

Meribel to Val d'Isere, Ten Hours and Counting

  • 8:30 am - Start the day in Meribel, drop the car off at the Chaudanne car park, gear up and head over to the lift station.
  • 9:00 am - Jump on the Roc De Fer chairlift as soon as it opens and the ten minute ride up to the Olympic Express chairlift, which takes you to the top of the ridge between the Meribel valley and the Valley de Belleville.
  • 9:20 am - As we're here we may as well traverse along the top of the Verdet piste and drop over onto my favourite run of all time, Jerusalem, then a ten minute hoon straight down the St. Martin.
  • 9:40 am - Stroll on to the usually queue-less St. Martin bubble followed by the St. Martin 2 chairlift back to the top of the valley. From here it's a short burst down the Gors Tougne piste to the Granges chairlift and another 5 minute ride to the top of the ridge. From here you can get some serious speed up cruising down the Allamands then Petit Creux pistes into Les Menuires.
  • 10:15 am - With three resorts dialled in after 90 minutes on the mountain we're onto a pretty good start. Time to head over to the Menuires chairlift and then Mont De La Chambre chair which drops us off at the entry point to Val Thorens.
  • 10:35 am - A quick phone call to one of my favourite resorts pubs, the Frog and Roast Beef to order some bacon and sausage sandwiches, then a blast down the short but steep Goitschel piste and Plan Sud all the way to the pub.
  • 10:45 am - Arrive in the Frog for a refuel, mug of tea and a quick catch up with the Duncan (the owner and veritable piece of Val Thorens furniture).
  • 11:15 am - Head over to the Plan Sud chairlift and then the Three Valleys 2 chair to the top of the valley. Tick resort number four off the list and then enjoy a ten minute cruise down the Lac de la Chamber piste whilst breakfast settles.
  • 11:45 am - After fighting the lift queues it's time to board the ever busy Plan Des Mains chairlift which takes us back toward Meribel-Mottaret along the Rossignol and Marter pistes, giving us some gentle riding/skiing after a high speed morning.
  • 12:00 pm - Time for the 20 minute ride on the Pas Du Lac bubble which takes you to the top of Saulire, on the Meribel/Courchevel border and with stunning views across the Three Valleys. One of my favourite spots to sit before heading down the wide open pistes into either resort.
  • 12:25 pm - Head down the motorway piste that is the Combe Saulire into Courchevel 1850. On a good day you can hammer this run in one long swoop finishing off in the centre of Courchevel 1850.
  • 12:40 pm - Get on the cosy Chenus bubble to the top of Col de la Loze, and then straight lining the Bouc Blanc all the way into La Tania, usually we'd stop in the Skilodge for a cheeky beer with Tim but today there's no time and it's straight to the cable car.
  • 1:00 pm - Four and a half hours on the mountain and seven resorts covered time to take the La Tania bubble followed by the Dou Des Lanches chairlift toward Meribel. Here it's a good 15 minutes winding through the network of blue runs back to the car.
  • 1:30 pm - With the kit thrown hastily into the back of the car its the 50 minute drive to Bourg St. Maurice.
  • 2:30 pm - With the clock ticking it's straight to the funicular to Les Arcs and Arc 1600 and putting the kit on in the lift while inhaling some crisps and cans of coke.
  • 2:40 pm - Straight to the Cachette chairlift and the Belvedere piste into Arc 1800. With time limited La Plagne is going to have to be sacrificed. Up the Vegere chairlift and back into Arc 1600 by 3:20pm.
  • 3:30 pm - Run back to the car and a head to the far end of the Tarantaise Valley, the Espace Killy. After a good 45 minutes we pull the La Daille car park at the bottom of Val d'Isere.
  • 4:30 pm - With an hour left until the lifts close the Folie Douce will have to wait for another day, we head up the Funival and from the Rocher de Bellevarde we ride down the 3i piste to the Tommeueses chairlift.
  • 5:00 pm - At the top of the Toviere the only way down with our time limit is the long steep Trolles, flying down the black run and praying that we can stop at the bottom, this may not be the most extreme piste on the planet but you can accelerate as fast as you dare on this run.
  • 5:10 pm - With minutes left to complete the challenge before the lifts close its up the Aeroski gondola, in Tignes Le Lac, then down the Edelweiss followed by the OK back down to La Daille. With time to spare it's paper scissor stone to see who's driving before popping into the Folie Douce for a beer. After a quick drink it back on the OK to La Daille, back into the car and a two minute drive into the centre of Val d'Isere.
  • 6:28 pm - Drop the car off and head to Cafe Facé or the Saloon Bar for some celebratory drinks. Job done.

OK, so we would have to sacrifice the idea of heading to La Plagne, and counting Meribel-Mottaret as a resort is tenuous, but with the right skiers, some French style driving, and a whole lot of sugar based drinks in 9:58 you could just about squeeze in ten ski resorts opposed to 138 games of tennis.

Now, just to convince the boss to pay for the trip!

Written by Stephen Adam



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